Well I know some of you guys have seen my post from time to time about having an alligator clip on thermocouple. They range from say $45 to 100 just depends on who you want to get screwed by I guess


Happy Fathers Day to all you horny guys that played to long with your mate or EX and you had a raise me give me I want this and that one and now just hoping for at least one day that it yours and that be NOW I guess We get at least one day a year

well get on it ... these need to be on the market , i have been telling guys about this guy down south doing this, and how they can measure part temp without opening the door or using a ir gun . its a cheap idea and works ...... but you know how some guys are they dont wanna try it on there own and mess it up , they would rather buy something already made .

hay duke, make me up one and i'll buy it off you

Sorry Duke, but I'm somewhat skeptical that this will work based on what I understand about TC's. My understanding is that the TC wires and end-probe are one complete unit and cannot be modified, or the emf/voltage/temperature reading will be inaccurate. Therefore one cannot add copper wire or 'add' a dpst switch as this would impact the voltage. If anyone has done a controlled test with a modified TC I would like to see the results.

Here is one link to an explanation of how TC's work:

http://www.processingtalk.com/news/oni/oni119.html or

http://www.watlow.com/products/guides/s ... sg_ovr.cfm

From what I've read this may be more possible with an RTD type sensor.

Dear mr ed before I even wanted to do this I got with Auber and they told me what to do
Companies sell the alligator clip and c clamp and a magnet one.

You have to use the same type wire as you thermocouple for it to work correct.

Now I have been using the factory build one I paid $44 for two years and it is connected to its on controller that's only function is taking a reading and has the alarm connected to it. I had an extra one so that is what I used it for.

My main controller has a toggle switch and two thermocouples. One for reading the higher part of my oven and one for the lower part. I can throw the switch and see the temp diff and my oven is fine tuned to within 3 to 5 degrees. My oven is like a 4x4x7. I did this to my oven right after I got it from Ted. He has known what I did the whole time.

Right now just for testing for the hell of it I clamped the clip on to the end of a thermocouple in my other oven and its connected to a spare controller and I am reading 1 degree difference between the two of them

I also have an ohm meter that has a plug in for its on thermocouple. At the end of the wire is a little solder and after I made my own before I soldered it I put both into a cup of cold ice water with ice cubes and they read the same. Both at 35 degrees. The one that came with it is approx 3 ft and the one I made is 6 ft.

And if doing the right color part my IR gun and my clip read together.

Magnet one Kind of pricey?
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/param ... ayDigital=
Alligator one
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/param ... _607&trs=1

Yep I have done my research and then one phone call to ask a question and then go for it and I don't have to do any thing till the alarm goes off and then set the timer. So you may go on with your theory if you please but looks like its kind of out the window I think.

You seem to know a lot but do you know how to tune coax for the 11 meter band? Well you have a set length to start with and a few inches off does not hurt but when you go to for off the it can make a big difference and I think the thermocouple wire works the same? like 3' 6' 9' but when you look at one for a home stove it might be 2' so hell if I know? But what I did looks like it works.

Today or tomorrow I will fire my oven up to do a lot of parts and then I will know more on the reading I get? Might be good and might not be? Where you clip on sometimes makes a bunch of diff just like shooting with the IR gun.

Have a good one.

the first picture shows the reading of both clips that are clipped on to a box end wrench. The 408 reading is the factory prob and the 399 is the one I made.

The second picture is with both of them clipped together.

I also found out my silver solder gave up so have to find what is really used or a better grade than Radio Shack sells? That could affect the reading I would say?

But not real bad on the readings. Who really knows witch one is more correct?

Duke I'm very interested in this set up you sent me a PM last week on the clip .... My question is are you using this clip to hook the part you coated so you get a more consistent reading of PMT with out having to loose any heat by opening a door to IR the part?

That is the whole point of having it is to be more accurate on the temp and when your alarm goes off you just set a timer. After I put my parts in I don't have to open my door till they are done and I am ready to take them out The IR guns do not give proper reading when trying to take one off some colors. And the best way around it is to have diff types and thickness of metals painted with high temp black grill paint like from rust-oleum so you shoot that to get your reading and you can see also if you get a reading close to it shooting your part. So work and some don't. Jason uses this on colors he knows want give a correct reading.

What type silver solder did you say you have? Grainger has what I need but i hate to spend that king of money till I know I got the one I want. The stuff is pricey. take a look at page 3159 on their site.

Ok I am very interested in this setup as well... Let me know how much you are going to charge for a package.

Yea, me too. Props to you Duke.